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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 12:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I'm copying this form a post I made in another forum just in case anyone over here cares. . .

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Stanly 62low res.JPG


For years I have been on the lookout for an old Stanley No. 62. Specifically I wanted it for preparing scarf joints to be glued. For whatever reason, I had a hard time using bench planes to clean up this joint but was very pleased with a 60 ½ block plane for this purpose. I did however; wish the block plane was longer and wider (like a bench plane). The 62 with the low angle, bevel up design and adjustable mouth but length of a jack seemed like it would be nice to have. The problem was that they were not made in the numbers that the 4s and 5s were. The few I did see for sale cost more than the L-N and Veritas versions. I am not really willing to spend that kind of money when I get satisfactory results with what I already have. Several years ago, Stanley started trying to break into the premium plane marked (once again produce quality hand planes) and the Sweetheart No. 62 was one of the offerings. I had been following the reviews which were mixed and came away with the impression that the original offerings had serious issues but they had much improved the effort in subsequent productions. I shied away because I was worried that I would end up with old stock and be disappointed. Recently, I revisited the idea of getting one of these and figured by now the chances are good that I would get a good one. I was pleased to see that they have come down in price too. I had a $50 amazon gift card my employer gave me and Stanley had a $10 off at checkout deal on amazon. That put the cost to me at $77 delivered so I took the plunge. I half expected to return it.

I have not had much of a chance to use it but I’ll share my thoughts. This is much cheaper than the other “premium” hand planes so I didn’t have the expectation that it would be perfect right out of the box like an L-N even; some of the reviews made that claim though. The short version is that I am not going to be sending this one back. . . My impression is that it is much better than a plane you would expect from the regular suspects in the modern era (useless) but not quite up to the standards of the big guys. There are things I like and things I don’t like so much but my complaints fall mostly outside of the performance category and IMHO justify the lower price compared to the premium makers.

Performance and Feel – I didn’t expect it to be perfect right out of the box (and it wasn’t) but that is how I tested it. I didn’t even hone the iron; what I got is what I used. I was able to peel nice thin shavings without further sharpening or set up. I wouldn’t call them angel farts, but nice translucent ribbons. I did not try any endgrain cuts because it didn’t occur to me to try until just now. I did use it on several different woods and liked the results (spruce, Honduran mahogany, sapale, osage orange, curly maple, curly white oak). The bed is stout and being a low angel bevel up plane, the frog is machined from the bed casting itself, this combined with the wonderfully thick blade produced no chatter to speak of. The bedding angle is 12 degrees with a 25 degree primary bevel giving a cutting angle of 37 degrees; a 30 degree secondary bevel will give 42 degrees (close to standard bench planes. Many people get a second iron and grind a 50 degree bevel resulting in a 62 degree cutting angle which should eliminate tear out in even the most difficult woods.

Being able to adjust the mouth instead of move the frog is very convenient. The Norris style depth/lateral adjustment mechanism is something I haven’t decided on yet. I think most of my reservations are born out of my inexperience with and and my concern about over tightening the lever cap (it doesn’t actually have a lever so I suppose I should call it something else) but more on that later. I hadn’t made the connection that you can’t advance the blade with you finger while planning to set the depth. That in and of itself is not a big deal to me and it probably should have been obvious. That said, I had to learn how much to turn to get the increased cut I wanted. There is a degree of backlash in this style adjuster and I don’t have a feel for it yet. I also think that the feel will be improved when I get used to tightening the lever cap properly. All that said, I was able to get it adjusted well enough without any annoyance, so things should only get better. The blade is nice and heavy and made from A2 steel. I don’t have any A2 blades but I think I will like it. I tend to put off sharpening a little too long, once I am doing it I don’t mind if it takes a while; A2 should fit in nicely with that. . . The tote is a bit too upright for my taste, I would prefer it to be swept further forward 5 degrees or so. It is also thicker and less refined than I would like. I’d much prefer the narrower (front to back) and more rounded (no flats on the side) shape of my 19th century Stanly tote. I suspect that I will just get used to this and won’t notice after a while. My biggest complaint would be the lever cap. It is aluminum and quite thin. I’m sure it is actually up to the task at hand, after all it shouldn’t really have that much stress on it, but it feels really cheap and fragile. I was afraid to over tighten it at first, so much so that twice I turned the plane over to sight the iron down the bed only to have the lever cap and blade slip loose and fall out. Part of me wants to make a new one from some African Blackwood scraps I have and add a nice inlay too.


Fit and Finish – Here is where it becomes obvious that this is not quite ready to run with the big boys. The machining is pretty good inasmuch as it appears to be pretty accurate where it counts, I have not yet checked to see just how flat the sole is because I always assume you will have to do some flattening. I will say that it appears to be very close. The adjustable mouth seats well but feels a little (for lack of a better description) gritty when adjusting compared to the adjustment on my 60 1/2. I am sure that some light file work will smooth that right up. This is the first time I have used a brand new plane, it is possible that the feel will get smoother with a little use. I do want to knock the corners from sole to sides down a little, they are pretty crisp and I could see them marring a surface with bad technique. The back side of the mouth is nice and straight and the bed angle looks to be ground accurately (a noted problem with the earlier offerings). Like the mouth closing, the adjustment for depth of cut and later movement don’t feel quite as smooth as I would like. Admittedly a large part of this is probably from my inexperience with the quirks of the Norris style adjuster.

The paint is okay but not great. It is definitely like the thick japanning you see on the vintage stuff. It seems a little thin. When I removed the tote, about half the bearing surface took the paint with it. It could be that the tote was screwed on while the paint was still soft or that I can expect the paint to chip off easily; only time will tell. The brass hardware is noticeably cheaper than what I am used to seeing on the old planes I have. Certainly up to the task but will probably not hold up as well over the next 100 years. Some of the brass bits had small dings scratches, it looks like they had all been rattling around in a drawer together, or, like they were on a plane that has actually been used (basically, not a big deal at all). The tote and knob are cherry and look nice. The knob on mine has a large blemish that looks like a burn mark on the top. Again, this is nothing to worry about but something that would not have come out of the L-N factory. The tote was well finished other than the shape I mentioned before, I have no complaints.

Overall my impression is that this plane is just about right for its price point. It is markedly cheaper that the fancy premium maker’s offerings with an expected reduction in quality. However, the decrease in quality is not as noticeable where it actually counts. Certainly it is difficult to produce tools that are flawless in function as well as looking like show pieces and still be low priced. It would seem that you get to pick 2 of the three. This offering picks the two I would have picked. I feel like I bought a Toyota instead of a Lexus. Further, this Toyota has features and quality not available on the Yugos you would buy from the big box stores.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 1:49 pm 
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Nice writeup Bryan. I wished it had higher sides, I might try it out as a shooting plane.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 2:04 pm 
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Thanks for taking the time to give us your thoughts, Bryan. I'm sure with continued use, you'll figure things out, and get excellent results!

Alex

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 2:28 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Steve, I take it you have one of these. Care to share your thoughts on the machining and when you purchased it?

I too have considered it for shooting (many people seem to be using it for that) I think the sides are adequate for that but I'm not sure if it would have a comfortable grip. The low angle may help in that area though because you wont have the frog and iron pushing into your hand.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 2:44 pm 
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Bryan Bear wrote:
Steve, I take it you have one of these. Care to share your thoughts on the machining and when you purchased it?

I too have considered it for shooting (many people seem to be using it for that) I think the sides are adequate for that but I'm not sure if it would have a comfortable grip. The low angle may help in that area though because you wont have the frog and iron pushing into your hand.


No, I don't have one (yet). I suppose it wouldn't be too difficult to modify it so it would be easy to shoot with but then it probably wouldn't be useful for anything else. Hmmmmm, just me thinking out loud idunno

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 3:01 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I think adding a removable "hot dog" handle to the side would work perfectly. At some point I'll remember to try it on its side to see if there is a comfortable grip without one. It can't be worse, for me, than the Baileys I use unless I just can't get a grip at all. Actually, you could make a "lever cap" with a handle out the side and use that when you shoot. Then just put the other one on when you use it for something else.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 3:17 pm 
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If you try it out as a shooter let us know what you think. I've been wanting to get one for a while but couldn't justify the cost for the LN or Veritas planes.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 3:24 pm 
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Will do, they are $136.41 on amazon right now (order through OLF) and Stanley will take $10 off at checkout (I think) until the end of the month. We are prime members so shipping was free. It doesn't really fill a need that I couldn't cover with my existing tools but now that I have it I think I will be using it as one of my go to tools. Shooting is one of those things I think it might take on. Now I might have to find a task to justify having my No. 6 :)

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:25 pm 
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I have the LN version. I do not find the lesser mass adequate for shooting compared to using a #7.

Great write up.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:33 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Jimmy, I suppose I should clarify. When I was talking about shooting, I was (and [perhaps erroneously] assumed Steve was) talking about shooting the center seam for tops and backs. I assume you are using a broader definition. I can't imagine needing the mass of a No. 7 (though it is likely nice to have) for these thin plates. I used to shoot them with a smoothing plane before I had anything longer. I once did it with a block plane. It was difficult to get it perfectly straight but I think that was a function of the short bed and not the low mass. I'm glad you mentioned it though. I sometimes make assumptions when using terms and it is good to be reminded to be careful.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:53 pm 
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Bryan Bear wrote:
Jimmy, I suppose I should clarify. When I was talking about shooting, I was (and [perhaps erroneously] assumed Steve was) talking about shooting the center seam for tops and backs. I assume you are using a broader definition. I can't imagine needing the mass of a No. 7 (though it is likely nice to have) for these thin plates. I used to shoot them with a smoothing plane before I had anything longer. I once did it with a block plane. It was difficult to get it perfectly straight but I think that was a function of the short bed and not the low mass. I'm glad you mentioned it though. I sometimes make assumptions when using terms and it is good to be reminded to be careful.


No worries, I wasn't being critical.

I did try to shoot a soundboard with both planes and felt like the extra mass resulted in a cleaner cut but this could be due to the fact that the #7 also has a chipbreaker. I ultimately don't really know anything.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 5:02 pm 
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No worries here either. . .

Hmm? Obviously I haven't even tried this plane on such a joint so I am not speaking from experience at all. I'm wondering if the cutting angle plays a factor here too. The bevel down plane being 7 degrees higher. I have a lot to learn! At the end of the day, it is whatever works for whomever is doing it. I'll be interested to see if I like my No. 6 better than this 62. It is probably about half way between the 7 and 62 in mass. As I type this I am thinking about my technique here. You may have unknowingly helped me improve. I don't feel like the mass is much of a factor for me in this operation. That tells me that I am probably going much slower than you are. I'm going to try to take quicker strokes and see if I have better results.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 5:17 pm 
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I felt like the low cutting angle did result in a less clean cut. I've had the 62 for nearly a decade and sometimes it seems to work better on certain pieces of wood and there's no rhyme or reason that I can tell why this is. On some cedar it works so impeccably, others not so much. I've considered trying different blades ground to various bevel angles but that's a project for another day.

Btw LN makes a Toothing blade for that plane. I don't own it but I bet it's very handy for thicknessing. I've got a hunch that the low angle combined with teeth is very effective. I don't know what type of steel it's made from, likely A2, a steel that I don't exactly like.

When I shoot I mimick an airplane's movement landing and then taking off and I do it very quickly and decisively. I feel like the decisiveness helps for a cleaner cut. I too have a lot to learn.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 6:15 pm 
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I don't have that particular Plane but I do have their No. 4 equivalent, smoothing Plane. It has some good and some not so good points.
The lever cap is made from aluminium, so it's easy to strip the thread. I haven't done it but that's because I'm very careful not to over tighten it. just beware of that factor. Mine has the Norris style adjuster that I'm not too fond of, significant backlash, although it hardly stops you from using the thing. It's hugely heavy, which is a bit of a disadvantage IMO. Some will see that as an advantage. Of course some of the above may not apply to the 62.
The rest of the Plane is very, very good - given the price.
I shoot with either a Bailey No. 5.5 or a No. 6 - whichever happens to be at hand.
Shooting is about an extremely sharp, finely set blade. The rest is learning to transfer weight throughout the stroke. Right at the front of the Plane for the start, I actually use my elbow at the very back of the plane as it nears the end of the stroke. You also need to read the grain, sometimes it switches and you have to adjust accordingly. If you find you are shooting into end grain (eg. at the end of the stroke) it virtually always results in a hollow at that part of the joint. That's when you need to release virtually all the inward force of the plane. Conversely sometimes you need to increase the force at certain points.



These users thanked the author Michael.N. for the post: Bryan Bear (Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:39 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:44 pm 
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Michael,that is a good description of my shooting technique. I use my whole forearm ending with the elbow. She me times I thought no I might actually be trying to do too much steering and over compensate.

How do you like the low angle for smoothing?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 1:31 am 
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There are a lot of just gorgeous planes out there from the likes of LN and Veritas, and I've not had the opportunity to try many, with the exception of a new Veritas Shooting plane I just sold on eBay. However, my old Bailey #7 has done an exceptional job of shooting everything from ukuleles to Weissenborns over the last 30+ years. I bought mine from a used tool dealer in the back of Fine Woodworking magazine for $100.00 in the early 80's. I see that they are even cheaper on eBay today. I absolutely love the mass and think it helps control the cut. Don't overlook older time tested planes in favor of shiny new things.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:20 am 
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Bryan Bear wrote:
Michael,that is a good description of my shooting technique. I use my whole forearm ending with the elbow. She me times I thought no I might actually be trying to do too much steering and over compensate.

How do you like the low angle for smoothing?


It's not a low angle Plane. It's the normal bevel down configuration. In fact I've never used a low angle Plane apart from the usual block plane types. I have a number of smoothers, from the usual bed angle right up to 65 degrees. I only really use the 45 planes though. There are other ways to deal with tear out. I'm hoping to make another transitional type plane, I'm so enamoured with the Jack transitional that I made. It's just about made all my other Jack planes redundant. I'll make the new one as a smoother, possibly bedded at 50 or a touch more. I'm hoping to get a very lightweight smoother that performs as good as a heavyweight metal plane.


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